Restaurants in Hapsburg Madrid: A symphony of flavours

In the heart of Madrid de los Austrias (Hapsburg Madrid), music fills the area around Teatro Real opera house, which has one façade that looks out onto Plaza de Isabel II and another that faces Plaza de Oriente. It’s a vibrant hub where opera lovers, visitors to the Royal Palace and diners who want to enjoy lunch or dinner converge right in the centre of the city.

Published in esMADRIDmagazine in May 2024

Everyone knows it as Plaza de Ópera because it’s where you’ll find Teatro Real, Madrid’s famous opera house, but it’s actually officially named after Isabella II, who was Queen of Spain from 1833 to 1868. It’s clearly a place steeped in history: it was here that Caños del Peral (Pear Tree) Fountain—with its six spouts and six basins, providing water for public use—was located back in the 16th century. You can still view its remains, along with those of the Amaniel Aqueduct, which supplied water to the Royal Palace in its heyday, at the intriguing archaeological museum located under the square inside the metro station. To round out the experience, in the very nearby Plaza de Ramales you can make out what’s left of the Islamic silo under a pane of glass set into the ground. So here we are, in the heart of Madrid, just a stone’s throw away from Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor and Plaza de Oriente, an area home to vibrant streets like Calle de Santiago, tabernas with a long history such as El Anciano Rey de los Vinos (No. 19 Calle de Bailén), which was founded in 1909, and one-of-a-kind gastro spaces like San Miguel Market (Plaza de San Miguel). Count yourself lucky if you happen to be here at lunchtime—you’ll be spoilt for choice!

PAPAGENA

Carlos III, s/n. ÓPERA. Tel. 629 70 78 85

A space where art, design and gastronomy come together is what we get at this restaurant. It’s on the sixth floor of Teatro Real, which is why it’s named after the counterpart of Papageno, one of the protagonists of Mozart’s The Magic Flute. The same magnetic charm that distinguishes the building, which boasts views of the Royal Palace, fills every corner of this eatery thanks to the interior design by Luis García Fraile and the menu crafted by chef Ramón Freixa. Starters include delicious options like chicken curry dumplings with red pepper hoisin, which can be followed by dishes like fried turbot with a citrus emulsion and fresh herbs. The cocktails are irresistible. Treat yourself by sipping a Madame Butterfly, which is made with chocolate liqueur. Make a note: on Sundays (12.30pm to 6.30pm), the brunch menu is accompanied by live music (reservations at feverup.com).

MAR MÍA

Plaza de Isabel II, 7. ÓPERA. Tel. 91 330 93 84

What does the Mediterranean mean to you? If someone asked us this question, we’d likely cite things like “blue”, “art”, “freedom”, “culture” and “cuisine”. It’s a whole world full of inspiration, which you’ll find in a place that prides itself on being the city’s most sophisticated urban beach bar. You’ll find it in Hotel Ocean Drive Madrid, just opposite Teatro Real. Next to the grill, and with a bar that’s stocked with fresh seafood, the Cooking Demonstration area invites us to dive wholeheartedly into a menu offering plenty of fish and seafood dishes, from sea bass to monkfish tail to red king crab legs to—naturally—rice dishes (dry or cooked in broth), which call to mind the Levant region. There are three other spaces: the Lounge, a cocktail bar perfect for after-work drinks; the Atrium, an oasis with music; and the Rooftop, which boasts a swimming pool and great views!

CAFÉ DE ORIENTE

Plaza de Oriente, 2. ÓPERA / PLAZA DE ESPAÑA. Tel. 91 541 39 74

You can’t say you’ve been in Madrid until you’ve stopped by this historical restaurant. With one of the city’s most popular al fresco dining areas right in Plaza de Oriente—in front of the Royal Palace—, it’s open every day of the year. Inside, the rooms’ vaulted ceilings are remnants from the original 17th-century convent which, three centuries later, was turned into a printing press before finally opening its doors as a café in 1983. It soon became a venue for tertulias, a type of social gathering with a literary or artistic bent. Regular clientele included important figures from the worlds of art, politics and music. It’s a piece of the city’s living history where you can start the day with a fantastic breakfast, indulge in a tasty lunch, enjoy an aperitivo or savour an evening meal. The menu includes dishes like huevos rotos (chips topped with free-range fried eggs), line-caught hake fillets, oxtail and—always—torrijas, Spain’s answer to French toast. They make theirs with toffee, pepper glass and vanilla ice cream.

LE BISTROMAN ATELIER

Amnistía, 10. ÓPERA. Tel. 91 447 27 13

Welcome to a prime example of the best traditional French cuisine in our country, thanks to its refined, elegant ambience, impeccable service, extensive wine list and outstanding food. Helmed by chef Stéphane del Río, the dishes here are based on classic but tastefully modernised recipes and top-quality ingredients sourced from both France and local producers. Located on a corner almost right beside Teatro Real opera house, this place oozes charm, which is apparent even from the outside. On the inside, which is decorated in Provence style, a world of flavours awaits. The delicious offerings include pâté en croûte, smoked salmon, tuna and amberjack terrine with horseradish sauce, Label Rouge duck magret, confit with bergamot-infused Bigarade sauce, and Mont Royal pigeon pastries with foie gras. It’s a true culinary voyage.

LA BOLA

Bola, 5. ÓPERA / SANTO DOMINGO. Tel. 91 547 69 30

This traditional taberna has been serving its most popular dish since 1870: cocido madrileño, a meat and chickpea stew. The food here is made “with lots of love” and the finest ingredients, cooked on a low flame over holm oak charcoal in individual stewing pots. The tripe and roast lamb options won’t disappoint either.

ANDA JALEO

Amnistía, 6. ÓPERA. Tel. 687 40 76 62

Amidst the din, eat, drink and live life! The message couldn’t be clearer at this tavern, where you can just as easily enjoy delicious croquettes as you can scarlet prawn and ham “dusted” salmorejo or oxtail, which is popular during the month of May. Tradition and innovation come together here in the ever-vibrant centre of the city.

LA BOTILLERÍA

Plaza de Oriente, 4. ÓPERA / PLAZA DE ESPAÑA. Tel. 91 548 46 20

The cuisine at La Botillería, run by chef Fabián Aguado, transports us to the heart of the Mediterranean. To start with, try the Iberian ham board with tomato, then for your main course, how about fresh Galician lobster rice? Thin-crust pizza lovers, you’re in luck too!

EL CAFÉ DE LA ÓPERA

Arrieta, 6. ÓPERA. Tel. 91 542 63 82

An outdoor café, a gastrobar and a restaurant. This establishment has a bit of everything! It’s famous for its Saturday night dinner shows featuring opera singers whose arias and zarzuelas provide the background music for a special set menu featuring main courses like salmon in a cava reduction and duck confit with Parmentier cinnamon potatoes. For dessert, there’s cheese flan with Madrid violet ice cream.

TABERNEROS

Santiago, 9. ÓPERA. Tel. 91 542 21 60

Traditional Spanish food that’s international at heart is what you get at this restaurant helmed by Japanese chef Kenji Morita. Here, pringá (stewed meat) croquettes feature on the menu alongside Guayaquil-style seabass tiradito and Thai-inspired beef cheeks. Don’t miss the house recommendations, such as the Dragon Eyes (a rice cake with free-range yellow curry chicken), and be sure to check out the wine list.

ARBONAIDA

Santiago, 11. ÓPERA. Tel. 639 50 00 68

Arbonaida is a word derived from Andalusian roots meaning "my land,". So, with the humour typical of the region in mind, we’ll venture to say it’s not quite a restaurant, pub or even a bar, but you gotta try it! There's always a great buzz at this fantastic spot for enjoying tapas or homely dishes. The Cordoba-style salmorejo, the battered ham and pork flamenquines, the tuna mojama and the fabulous cheese board all go down a treat!

LA LONJA DEL MAR

Plaza de Oriente, 6. ÓPERA / PLAZA DE ESPAÑA. Tel. 91 541 33 33

Featuring an al fresco dining area with views of the Royal Palace, this restaurant—which also has a taberna—serves food that’s inspired by the sea. Diners can enjoy seasonal fish and seafood as well as the catches of the day, prepared in a thousand different ways, as we can see on the menu. Spider crab lasagne, tempura hake bites and garlic prawns are just some of the options to choose from, and the red prawn rice is always sure to please.