It’s all happening in Las Salesas

It’s the place to be in Madrid. Almost, but not quite, a neighbourhood, it’s the perfect area to wander, shop, discover new spots and let your taste buds lead the way. Haute cuisine has found a home in its streets and squares, which are full of charming, historic buildings.

Published in esMADRIDmagazine in March 2024

This slightly bohemian, very chic area is located between Paseo de Recoletos and the neighbourhood of Chueca. It’s full of charming places, stylish fashion and decor shops, and art galleries. Its streets conceal a love story: that of Barbara of Portugal, whose statue presides over the delightful Plaza de la Villa de París, and her husband, Ferdinand VI. Since they didn’t have any children, they weren’t buried in the Monastery of El Escorial like the other Spanish monarchs, but in Las Salesas Reales, a fairy-tale church which stands proud in Plaza de las Salesas. The devoted queen was a patroness and lover of the arts. She would have been pleased to know that her tomb is now an essential stop for anyone who comes to the area to wander, visit the Museum of Romanticism, admire the stunning modernist façade of Longoria Palace or shop at Madrid’s most stylish street market, [The Festival] by SALESAS, which is held on the first Saturday of the month. And it’s the perfect excuse to stay on afterwards to enjoy the area’s excellent, varied cuisine!

DSTAGE

Regueros, 8. ALONSO MARTÍNEZ. Tel. 91 702 15 86

This restaurant is the result of the unique path which Diego Guerrero set out on exactly ten years ago when he decided to step out, as they say, of his comfort zone—he was head chef at Club Allard—to reinvent himself and break new ground with an original venture. DSTAgE opened its doors in 2004. The chef from Vitoria has managed to create a truly welcoming space which features industrial tones, such as the exposed brick and pipes, and an open kitchen. Diners can choose between two tasting menus: Dstage, with 15 courses, and Denjoy, with 18. To call the Basque chef’s creations “fusion cuisine” would be an incredible understatement. He invites us on a true culinary journey with a single goal: surprising our taste buds. Two Michelin stars attest to the sensational quality of the food at this Madrid restaurant. Not to be missed!

LOS 33

Plaza de las Salesas, 9. COLÓN. Tel. 91 499 72 58

Spanish and Uruguayan cuisine come together in what is one of Madrid’s trendiest restaurants. This alone is reason enough to visit the area, a real foodie hotspot. The decor here features large wooden and metal beams, wicker stools and lots of vinyl records—this space breathes great music—and fire, or rather, the grill, is the star attraction. Grilled meat and vegetables—the beef sweetbreads are a sure bet—stand out on the menu, but don’t miss the chance to try other delicious offerings like the Salesas omelette (made with potato and onion), the skirt steak pasties, the Creole chorizo croquettes and even tasty sandwiches like the chivito with Havarti cheese or the choripán—made with chorizo. Be sure to check out the cocktail list: the mojito and negroni are on another level.

ZÍNGARA

Plaza de las Salesas, 8. COLÓN. Tel. 652 18 80 63

A parade of flavours is what you get at this restaurant which has a touch of mystique as it pays homage to different countries and cultures. Diners will find flavours from around the world, with dishes like Korean ssam, pickled causa, sweet potato noodles and aubergine Milanese. The cocktails are ideal for “free spirits and rebellious souls”.

LLAMA INN

Conde de Xiquena, 2. COLÓN / BANCO DE ESPAÑA. Tel. 91 556 15 48 / 657 11 10 36

A bit of Peru, a pinch of Brooklyn, a dash of spice and lots of mischief! That’s the interesting approach of this restaurant which welcomes everyone with open arms. On the menu, you’ll find ceviches (scallop or squid), sea bass with ají amarillo peppers and butter, pan-fried pork loin... and a wide range of cocktails.

CASA ORELLANA

Orellana, 6. ALONSO MARTÍNEZ. Tel. 91 502 41 82

From the snack and tapas bar to hearty home-style fare, everything here is a blend of the traditional and the modern. It’s just as easy to enjoy typical dishes like cocido madrileño (meat and chickpea stew) and oxtail croquetas as it is to try creations like huevos rotos (fried eggs on chips) topped with bluefin tuna tartare. If you’re looking for something to do at the weekend, try the spectacular brunch.

CASA FELISA

Beneficencia, 15. ALONSO MARTÍNEZ. Tel. 91 447 51 11

Let’s eat! That’s the battle cry of this restaurant aimed especially at everyone who knows—or wants to find out—what it means to eat well in Madrid. It’s a place where you can treat yourself to classic cuisine with a few eccentric twists. The menu offers everything from stewed lentils with pheasant and fois gras to verdina beans with monkfish and lobster to Salisbury steak with tomato concassé. Is that all? Not by a long shot! For dessert, try the torrijas, Spain’s answer to French toast.

GOLDA

Orellana, 19. ALONSO MARTÍNEZ / COLÓN. Tel. 91 069 10 70

What is this place? A café? A bar? A restaurant? Golda is a little bit of everything. It’s a fresh, fun eatery which transforms over the course of the day, offering a casual menu sure to please any diner. Start with a specialty coffee, and then try the quinoa bowl before finishing up with a pastrami sandwich, falafel or pascualinas (spinach, chard, cheese and boiled egg pies). The brunch is pure bliss.

XEITO! 19’20’’

Prim, 5. CHUECA. Tel. 680 25 19 33

“The triumph of simplicity” would be an apt description of this Galician restaurant, a casual venture by chef Iván Domínguez from A Coruña who takes us on a culinary voyage to his homeland with dishes made using the finest ingredients. His fun, spontaneous cuisine takes its cues from the seasonal offering available in the market. The menu features options like stewed beef cheeks with polenta and roast sweet potato, cured meat and roasted pepper Tatin, and a range of pickled delights.

NOMO BRAGANZA

Bárbara de Braganza, 8. COLÓN. Tel. 91 088 75 74

Mediterranean culture and Japanese cuisine come together at this restaurant, which is a lesson in design. For a moment, the raked sand fools us into thinking we’re in a Zen garden, so it’s no surprise that tranquillity and warmth flood every corner. With dishes like red prawn, shiitake mushrooms and egg yolk noodles, gyozas, and tempura prawns with kimuchi sauce, you may find it hard to decide. If you do, your best option is to order the Nomo Menu, which features the chef’s top picks.